Colorado Review

As much fun as it is to spend hours schussing down ski slopes, an important part of any ski vacation is also what you do after a day on the mountain. That is, hanging out with your ski buddies around cozy fire with a hot drink in hand.

The Mountain Vacation Specialists at Ski.com have visited each of the 80+ ski resorts whose vacation packages they book in Western U.S. and Canada. They’ve got the inside scoop on what makes each resort–including many in Colorado–extra special.

These ski-vacation experts recently named the top fireplaces and fire pits at the resorts they sell. Two Colorado resorts came in the top five: Park Hyatt Beaver Creek and the Sky Hotel in Aspen.

1. Park Hyatt Beaver Creek, Beaver Creek, Colorado
This fire pit is situated on a huge patio overlooking the slopes. Enjoy bar service, live music and complimentary s’mores made with homemade, gourmet marshmallows. (See picture at left for the decadent display of goodies!)

5. 39 Degrees in the Sky Hotel, Aspen, Colorado
In the late afternoon, once the skiers have taken their last runs, this fireplace is the place to see and be seen. Only the hippest hipsters gather here to sip on fun drinks like the “Ski Bunny Martini.”

Ski.com is headquartered in Aspen, and I know some of the “vacation specialists” there. The company has actually been around for 35 years (formerly Aspen Ski Tours) and is known for giving personalized service. It really does give travelers “one-stop shopping” for everything you could need at more than 80 of the most popular resorts and 1,400 properties in the United States, Canada, Europe and South America.

If you’re planning a ski trip in the coming months, log onto Ski.com to check out its offerings!

I’ve been remiss in reporting on our weather here in Colorado lately. Here’s the view from my front porch:

The skiing and boarding fanatics are going nuts with all the white stuff that has landed at the state’s ski resorts. In fact, the women’s World Cup races were canceled in Aspen last Friday because there was too much snow! (Is there ever such a thing? Really!)

Here’s the scoop on how much snow has fallen and what’s happening at some Colorado ski resorts:

Purgatory More than 4 feet of snow fell on Purgatory’s slopes in the first week of December, making for a killer opening day, December 8. According to the media folks there, “conditions are epic” and all the snow made for one of the best openings in the resort’s history. Twenty-two inches of fresh snow have fallen in the last 72 hours. The entire mountain is expected to be open this Saturday.

Aspen/Snowmass All four mountains that make up the Aspen/Snowmass area (Aspen, Snowmass, Highlands and Buttermilk) are open for business, with stellar conditions. Aspen Highlands has received 50 inches of snow in the past seven days!

Winter Park It’s a powder day at Winter Park; nearly 9 inches of snow has fallen in the last 24 hours. If you want to be one of the first folks on the mountain this Saturday, consider the “Fresh Tracks Breakfast”: The mountain allows the first 100 guests up the chairlift before it officially opens. It costs $29.99 for adults and $19.99 for kids. After you take your early morning runs, you get a hearty breakfast at Sunspot. Call 800.729.7907 for more details and to register.

Wolf Creek This ski area in the southern mountains of Colorado boasts that it’s the snowiest location in the state. It’s already received a whopping 171 inches of snow this year! (Crazy!) The summit (at nearly 12,000 feet) has received 14 inches in the last 24 hours. And the beauty of skiing at Wolf Creek is that the Pagosa Springs hot springs (The Springs Resort) is just down the hill. A lovely place to rest quivering thighs after a day on the slopes.

From my home in the Colorado Rockies, I’ve got a choice of airports.

Aspen (ASE) is only 30 minutes away, but usually prices to fly in and out of this chi-chi resort are steep, especially in the high season (summer and winter).

Grand Junction (GJT) is about 90 minutes from me, but it works if I’m flying to the West Coast (usually via Salt Lake City or Phoenix).

Denver (DEN) is a nearly-four-hour drive, but since it’s a United and Frontier hub, I get the best deals here. If I’m flying somewhere with the whole family (four of us; five if my mother-in-law comes along) we’ll make the drive to Denver and stay overnight in an airport-area hotel before our flights. We typically do this for long-haul trips to Mexico or the East Coast.

My preferred airport, however, is Eagle/Vail (EGE). Why? That’s easy: FREE PARKING!

How many regional airports these days offer totally free short-term and long-term parking? Not many, I don’t think. All the parking spots are within walking distance to the main terminal–no shuttle service needed. That’s a beautiful thing.

For me, the airport is an hour from my home. That means it’s about an hour and a half from Aspen. It’s also less than 30 minutes to Vail’s slopes, and not that much further to Breckenridge.

Basically, if you’re coming to the Rockies to ski, consider EGE if you don’t want to make the lengthy drive from Denver International Airport. Colorado Mountain Express vans make scheduled runs from EGE to the various Western Slope ski areas.

The Vail/Eagle County Regional Airport also offers free wireless internet service throughout the terminal. It’s spacious and always clean. A newly remodeled coffee shop and deli offers healthy food before your flight.

And the airport does accommodate jet service, which is great for me, since I hate flying on small propeller planes (yes, the irony of being a travel writer and dreading small-plane flying does not escape me). Boeing 757s regularly fly in and out of EGE.

For your next vacation in Western Colorado, I highly recommend checking out EGE. It’s truly the most convenient airport to most of the Rockies resort locations, and has many non-stop flights from major U.S. cities. Read more about EGE here.

Everyone in my neck of the woods—the Aspen area of Colorado—is fixated on the sky lately. We’re praying to the snow gods to bring the flakes to our mountains. The snow that was forecast for Wednesday, left just an inch or two in my front yard–and it promptly melted as soon as the sun came out on the day before Thanksgiving.

The “storm,” did, however, dump about 12 inches on Aspen Mountain and 9 inches on Snowmass Mountain. It wasn’t enough for the mountain managers to open Aspen Mountain for skiing on Thanksgiving (the gondolas were free to outdoor enthusiasts who wanted to snowshoe or hike). Snowmass was open—and the lifts were free to folks who wanted make some turns on the limited terrain. (I’m a fair weather/great conditions kind of skier, so my boards remain in my basement for now!)

I thought visitors would be complaining bitterly about the lack of snow, but it turns out, those who traveled from places like Florida and the Caribbean were thrilled to simply be able to play a bit in snow. Of course, the fact that skiing was totally free helped!

It is cloudy here today, and more snow is in the forecast for the coming week. (If my brother is reading, rest assured I’m *sure* there will be plenty of snow for your snowboarding visit over Christmas!)

In the meantime, if visitors want to forego the slopes and enjoy other activities while they’re visiting my fine state, there’s tons to do. Here’s a special I learned about recently:

Reasonable Rates at Hotel Monaco, Denver
Stay at the four-diamond Hotel Monaco, an upscale boutique hotel in downtown Denver, for as low as $104 a night through January 6. You’ll be close to shopping, nightlife, tons of restaurants, and did I mention awesome stores for holiday shopping? Plug in the promo code TZP at the hotel’s reseservations website.

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1. Randi, Brad Pitt Watch: “A Blast from the Past for Project Blog”
2. Kate, Babylune: “Has Sex Really Left the City?”
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6. Cynthia, TV of the Absurd: “Supernatural Origins: Take Two”
7. Mark, Get Incensed: “We’re Still Not Friends”

It’s coming! But it’s not here yet!

I’m sitting in my mountain home at 7,000 feet elevation — 30 minutes from Aspen’s slopes — and it’s 60 degrees outside. According to one of the local papers, the Aspen Times, Aspen Mountain and Snowmass will open on Thanksgiving Day with very limited terrain. Jeff Hanle, an Aspen Skiing Company spokesperson is suggesting that locals not even try to hit the slopes. He’s quoted in the paper as saying, “It’s not going to be the best conditions in the world, so we may want to leave it to our visiting guests.”

Other ski resorts in the state have opened, but conditions are reported marginal elsewhere, too.

That all said, according to the Weather Channel, a storm is moving in, at least in my neck of the woods, and we can expect some snow starting late tonight. In Aspen tomorrow, the high is expected to be in the 30s, with morning snow showers. Another storm is moving in later in the week, with some snow expected on Friday, as well. Denver’s high is forecast to be only 28 degrees, also with snow on its way tomorrow and Friday.

Even though the ski season is starting slowly around here, I’m not worried. If temperatures do drop this week as forecast, the snow-making machines will be running on overdrive to fill in those patchy spots on the slopes. And I’m sure Mother Nature will help out by the time visitors arrive in droves for the busy Christmas-to-New-Year’s Week, which can be hectic in Aspen, but oh-so-fun for celebrity spotting!

Photo by Hal Williams. Courtesy AspenSnowmass.com.

In the November 2007 edition of SKI magazine, two Colorado resorts are named to the list of “7 Great Mountains to Ski with Your Kids.”

One is Beaver Creek, and my regular readers know how much I love this exclusive high-alpine resort. (Catch up here, and read more about why it’s so great for kids in the wintertime here.)

The other is Durango Mountain Resort, a.k.a. Purgatory, which I also give high marks to, although I’ve only been there in the summertime, when the mountain morphs into a family-friendly playground with an alpine slide, climbing wall and mini-golf course. So, I guess it’s no wonder it comes recommended for families in the wintertime, as well.

In the article, Purgatory is hailed for its “rolling steps that are roller-coaster fun, but never intimidating.�

The resort is pinpointed as being a great location for kids because of the family-friendly atmosphere at both the resort and in town. “With the one-two combo of town and resort, families find great skiing, comfortable digs and an authentically Western experience,� says the magazine noting Mesa Verde and the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad as excellent side vacations for families.

One factor placing Durango Mountain Resort on this elite list of great mountains to ski with kids is the Mountain Master Plan that includes new condo accommodations, swimming facility, restaurants and retail outlets and more family-friendly amenities. Purgatory Lodge is the resort’s largest development in history and is currently taking shape in the heart of Purgatory Village.

With an expected completion of phase one in winter 2008-09, Purgatory Lodge will feature new skier services, including a ticket office, rental and retail outlets, bathrooms, lockers, a swimming pool and spa area and a new Purgy’s Day Lodge; perfect for parents watching their children come down the mountain.

Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort is scheduled to begin the 2007-08 winter season December 1 with the 15th annual Benefit Day. (An earlier opening date is possible as winter weather moves into the area.) Benefit Day features $15 lift tickets with all proceeds going to local non-profit organizations; this year’s benefactors are Durango Nature Studies and the Durango Winter Sports Foundation. Season Passes and daily lift tickets begin December 2.

Photo by Scott W. Smith.

skiing, Durango, Colorado

The Arrabelle at Vail Square is the ski resort’s latest luxury property–it’s first new ultra-upscale hotel in 25 years, according to the general manager in an interview with the Vail Daily. Set to open January 5, 2008, it’s already receiving a bit of a media buzz, with its upscale appointments and amenities, including “highly anticipative” concierges who can arrange everything from dinner reservations to in-room massages to ski tuning.

Here are the facts, from the Arrabelle’s public-relations folks:

LOCATION: Steps away from the Eagle Bahn Gondola at Vail Mountain.

THE RESORT: A luxury resort with 36 hotel rooms and up to 50 additional condominium lock-off rooms, The Arrabelle at Vail Square will offer Old World charm and the timeless elegance of Europe’s grand resorts with the romance and world-class style of Vail’s alpine heritage. It will be a true ski-in resort as it is centrally located in Vail Square, just steps away from the mountain. The Arrabelle will also feature a Great Room, offering guests an exclusive outdoor veranda with sweeping views of Vail Mountain. For the summer months, the resort offers a rooftop pool.

VAIL SQUARE: Vail Square will feature an ice rink and fire pit in winter, a terraced area with fountains in summer and a summer
plaza for concerts and activities, over 33,000 square feet of retail space, including upscale boutiques (i.e.: Patagonia, Quicksilver) and restaurants, and seasonal movie nights on an outdoor movie screen.

ACCOMMODATIONS: Richly inspired Lodge Rooms based on the Biedermeier design style will vary from 510 to 710 square feet and feature flat-panel TVs, DVD players, BoseTM MP3/CD alarm-clock radios, complimentary high-speed wireless Internet access, canopy beds, work desk, fireplace, minibar, in-room safe and humidifier. The marble bathrooms will include a shower and separate tub, double sinks, a TV, plush bathrobes and luxury amenities. Junior suites and deluxe king suites are also available.

RESTAURANTS: Centre V will be a brasserie-influenced restaurant specializing in the satisfying cuisines of Paris and Lyon. Chef Thomas Salamunovich, owner of Vail’s acclaimed Larkspur Restaurant on Vail Mountain, will use his culinary imagination and expertise to create the menu and ambiance. Salamunovich studied under various well-known chefs including Wolfgang Puck and Jeremiah Towers. The restaurant will fuse an overall warmth and heartiness along with upscale style and elegance. The menu will include fruits de mer platters, steak frites, and French desserts such as Crêpes Suzette and chocolate pots de crème. Centre V will accommodate up to 200 guests.

SPA: The RockResorts Spa at The Arrabelle will exude fresh, contemporary elegance with a distinct European touch. The 9,000 square foot spa facility will feature six massage rooms, two facial rooms, a Vichy Shower/Swiss Shower room and a couple’s therapy room. Other offerings include an expansive spa boutique and area, an elegant nail salon, locker rooms with water falls, plunge pools, steam rooms and sauna, as well as a couple’s suite with private circle tub. Its 2,000 square foot fitness facility will include TechnoGym equipment.

HOTEL SERVICES: The hotel will offer guests ski and boot valet and storage, personalized butler service, a highly anticipative concierge service, a business library, children’s activities, babysitting services, a gift shop, valet parking in an underground parking area, 24-hour room service and 24-hour front desk service.

ACCESS: The Arrabelle at Vail Square is approximately 30 miles east of Vail/ Eagle County Airport, and 120 miles west of Denver International Airport.

And the rates for all this luxury? In the winter peak season, rooms will cost about $1,300 to $1,400 per night; in summer, about $450 to $500, according to the Vail Daily. Too pricey for you? Check out this Vail condo deal.

Vail, Arrabelle

I’ve made no secret of my fondness for vacation condominium rentals. Why stay in a standard hotel room, when you can spread out in a multi-bedroom unit? Especially for ski vacations, when you’re packing lots of equipment, gear and warm clothes, you want spacious accommodations. Plus, a living and/or dining room gives you room to lounge around apres ski.

The amenities in many vacation homes–whether they are condominiums or freestanding houses–help take the hassle out of a cold-weather, equipment-heavy sport, and the camaraderie can’t be beat. Vacation home rental can even save skiers money, especially when you’re traveling as a family, or with a large group of friends.

ResortQuest, the nation’s largest ski vacation home rental company, has properties in Aspen, Breckenrige, Keystone, Steamboat Springs and Telluride. The company offers the following tips for those looking to rent a ski vacation home this ski season:

Look Before You Book
When shopping for ski vacation rentals, look for companies that offer a simple way to determine a home’s suitability for you and your winter sport companions. Go to the web site: it should provide photos as well as detailed descriptions of accommodations. It should also tell you the home or condo’s proximity to the slopes and available services.

Plenty of Perks
Many vacation rental companies offer renters special perks, from discounted lift tickets to free ski lessons and even entertainment or attraction tickets for time off the slopes.

Check Out The Amenities
Make sure the home has all of the amenities your group needs. Is there space for skis, poles. parkas, snowboards and other equipment to be stored safely? Is the washer/dryer large enough to accommodate all your gear? Will there be enough towels for everyone every day? Call in advance to make sure.

Word Of Mouth
What better way to gauge the quality of a ski rental property than to find out if other people liked it? Ask the rental company if a property has a high percentage of return guests. Or check online forums to see what people have to say.

Sleep Tight/Ski Right
Decide in advance who bunks with whom and where (especially, who gets the master bedroom). Take into account when travelers plan to hit the slopes and match roommates accordingly. Look for vacation accommodations where each bedroom has its own bathroom, or set up bathroom usage schedules in advance.

Feeding the Hungry
Everyone will be famished after a long day careening through the white stuff. Can arrangements be made in advance to have the pantry stocked? Are there places nearby from which food can be delivered? Decide in advance on how to share costs of food and beverage, who cooks and who cleans up. Could anyone arrive early to get the grocery shopping done and unpacked before everyone else arrives? Another option is to decide who will be bringing what from home.

Just in Case
Ensure that the property has the ability to help take care of urgent needs–from getting an extra toothbrush to assisting with accidents and other medical emergencies. This is best accomplished when there is a local management office or representative from the rental management company available to assist around the clock. Let’s face it–heaters and refrigerators can break down, so you’ll want someone on-site to quickly make it right for your ski group.

skiing, Colorado, condominiums

Here’s a great package I read about on Travelzoo’s weekly list of Top 20 deals: you can stay at the Grand Lodge Hotel in Crested Butte for just $49 per person per night AND ski for free at Crested Butte Mountain Resort from November 25 to December 15.

This three-diamond hotel with 226 guest rooms and suites is within walking distance of the ski slopes. It’s a newly renovated hotel with a fitness center, year-round indoor/outdoor pool, and ski and snowboard rentals. The on-site Wildflower Spa offers massages, herbal wraps, body polishes, facials and more. (Nice way to treat yourself after a day on the slopes!) Three different dining options include the Woodstone Grill, Deli and Lounge.

The town of Crested Butte is one of the state’s largest National Historic Districts. It was originally settled in the 1880s as a mining camp. The Grand Lodge Hotel is about three miles away at the base of the ski hill in Mt. Crested Butte. Free shuttle service whisks guests to and from downtown.

Crested Butte is in the southwest corner of the state, in the Gunnison National Forest and the Elk Range of the Rockies. The nearest airport is the Gunnison/Crested Butte Airport, about 30 miles away. Or you can fly into Montrose, which is nearly 100 miles away. Kids can fly for free on United and American to Crested Butte. Read about the details here.

Too book the $49/night rate (per person), you’ll have to move quickly. The deal ends October 19. Book online here.
Or call 877-326-1468 and say you want to book the SKIFREE package.

Crested Butte

Arapahoe Basin ski area opened to the public at 9 a.m. this morning, marking the mountain’s earliest opening in its 61 years of operation. Last year the ski area was the first to open in the nation and this year A-Basin continues that trend. Opening day here always has a festive feel. Local radio station KSMT is at the base with a live remote, playing music and handing out giveaways.

As I type, skiers and riders are enjoying an 18-inch snow base on the intermediate High Noon run and some features in the High Divide terrain park. Beginners are out of luck, though. None of the novice runs will be open.

New this season, A-Basin will introduce Montezuma Bowl, 400 acres of lift served groomed runs, glades, chutes and wide-open bowl skiing. The new expansion is expected to open sometime in late December, snow conditions permitting.

Opening day adult lift tickets are $45, youth tickets age 15-19 are $39 and child tickets age 6-14 will be $22. Ski and snowboard rentals, food and beverage service in the A-Frame, the 6th Alley bar and retail shop are open to the public. Ski school lessons will begin when the Molly Hogan Learning Center opens later in November.

A-Basin’s Bonus Passes are available while supplies last for $309. The Bonus pass holder receives unlimited skiing or riding at A-Basin for the 2007-2008 ski season and five non-transferable ski days at Keystone or Breckenridge. One of those days can be used at Vail or Beaver Creek (some restrictions apply). A-Basin only passes are also available at great prices. Purchase your pass on site at A-Basin, call 1-888-Arapahoe or order on-line.

Arapahoe Basin is 68 miles west of Denver, in Summit County. This high-alpine ski area’s base elevation is at 10,870 feet, and its summit elevation is 13,050 feet. It’s the highest skiable terrain in North America, with half the mountain above treeline.

Colorado skiing, Arapahoe Basin